Oct 19, 2011

Lighten Your Natural Hair Without Using Bleach...

After posting the results of my amazing color job (by the wonderful Cori @ Justin's Salon Studio), I received a bunch of questions asking how I was able to go lighter without using bleach. Excited to share her wealth of knowledge with my readers, Cori allowed me to pick her brain hoping to educate everyone on the basics of hair color and going lighter with natural hair sans the bleach.

Before     &     After

Q. How were you able to lighten my hair without using bleach? 
A. First things first, I used Wella Koleston Perfect permanent color line for both your base and highlight tones. The highlights were done with their "hilift blonde" series with 40 volume developer. This series is specifically designed to lighten your hair for up to 5 levels of lift without the damaging effects that we talked about with bleach. The base color was achieved with a level ten series and twenty volume developer. Your pre-existing natural color level determines the result of the color. Because your natural hair color is more dusty/sandy we were able to achieve a lighter result. 

Q. How do you determine how light you can go without using bleach?
A. You measure color levels on a scale of 1-10 or 2-12 depending on the color line, 1(2) being black and 10(12) being lightest pale blonde or platinum. So respectively your hair is more between the levels of 4-5 which means your hair can be lightened 3 or levels easily with just permanent color. So someone using your same color formula with hair between the levels of 1-3 would not yield the same result, but that's not to say that it can't be done, only that color formulas in most cases are tailored for each specific client.

Q. Why does darker hair appear to be shinier than lighter colored hair?
A.  If your natural black color seemed more shiny, it's true. Black reflects the light much better than blonde! Remember that during the permanent color process the cuticle is raised in order to replace the natural pigment with artificial pigment molecules, so it's important to use products that will continue to smooth and seal the cuticle because that will help maintain your hair and your color.

Have more questions for Cori? Feel free to leave them in the comments section....

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